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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.